DIY Wheel Lights Guide by HiVis
HiVis here! A few years back, I decided to light up my bike wheels, and since then, I’ve been helping others do the same. When I’m not riding on the Playa at Burning Man, I’m riding in local Critical Mass and cruiser rides. There are tons of LED strip options, and I’ll help break them down for you here. A little soldering experience is recommended.
Step 1: Make Your Lighting Decisions
Decide what you want to light up: wheels, bike frame, tent, trailer, your outfit—anything goes!
Choose your LED strips: consider voltage, brightness, strip length, and whether you want color-changing effects.
Consider your environment: Will your lights need to be waterproof? Will they be mounted on moving parts like wheels or stationary parts like your frame or camp structure?
LED Strip Basics
Voltage:
5V: USB-powered. Great for addressable LEDs (with ESP32). Ideal for smaller setups.
12V: More common for bikes. Requires a 12V battery pack. Good for longer runs without needing power injection.
24V: Better for larger installs (like lighting up your art car or home).
Type:
COB (Chip-on-Board): Provides a smooth, continuous glow with no visible gaps between LEDs. Great for aesthetic lighting.
Addressable/IC (Individually Controlled): Each LED (or small segment) can be controlled separately using a controller like an ESP32 running WLED software. Offers custom effects and animations.
LED Density: Higher LED count = brighter strip but increased power draw. COB strips often offer 320–528 LEDs per meter.
Helpful Links:
QuinLED Digi Uno: quinled.info
ESP32 Chip: Amazon
High Voltage ESP32: ezsbc.shop
Popular 5V LED Strips:
BTF COB LED — smooth glow, easy to power with USB packs.
IC COB LED with Controller — comes with remote and effects.
Govee RGBIC — app-controlled, addressable.
Popular 12V LED Strips:
VeloGlow RGB Strip with Controller — made for bikes.
VeloGlow Single Color COB LED — great for maximum runtime and visibility.
Battery Basics
Batteries are measured in mAh (capacity) and Watt output (power draw).
More mAh = longer runtime. Higher watts = ability to power more LEDs.
Choose a battery size and shape that fits your mounting location — between spokes, on the frame, or inside a backpack.
For 12V setups, ensure your battery has a DC output (usually 5.5mm x 2.1mm barrel plug).
Popular 5V Batteries:
Anker Pack — reliable and compact.
Waterproof Pack — rugged and weather-resistant.
Popular 12V Batteries:
VeloGlow Bike Battery — made to fit bike hubs.
Talentcell Packs — various sizes available.
Note: If you’re building your own battery pack (with 18650 cells), make sure you understand battery safety. Use a proper BMS (battery management system) and never overcharge or short-circuit the pack.
Controllers
Controllers let you change colors, brightness, and light patterns. Choose based on your strip type:
Inline Controllers (for non-addressable RGB strips): Simple push-button, IR remote, or Bluetooth app.
ESP32 Controllers (for addressable strips): Use WLED to create custom effects, WiFi control, and sync with music.
Popular Controllers:
How to Build Your Wheel Lights
Materials You’ll Need:
2 LED strips (approx. 2.5m each for 29” wheels)
2 x 12V battery packs
Inline controller (or ESP32 setup)
Zip ties (various sizes)
Soldering iron & solder
Wire cutters/strippers
DC5521 barrel plugs (male/female depending on battery)
Heat shrink tubing (optional)
Electrical tape
Rubbing alcohol and soap (for cleaning wheels)
Extra wire (for extensions if needed)
Steps:
Clean your wheels thoroughly. Remove all grime using soap, then wipe down with alcohol for good adhesion.
Test your LED strips with your battery before cutting.
Cut the LED strip at designated copper pads.
Strip wire ends and solder wires to the strip pads (if not pre-wired).
Connect to controller and ensure proper polarity: 12V+, R, G, B.
Use heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to protect solder joints.
Peel and stick LED strips to the wheel rim, starting near a spoke.
Use zip ties to secure the wires along spokes.
Mount the battery on the hub with zip ties or a 3D printed bracket.
Secure loose wires to prevent flapping or snagging during rides.
Install Video: YouTube Tutorial
Final Tips
Always test your full setup before final installation.
Color modes draw power differently — red may run longer than white.
Addressable LEDs and full white mode drain batteries faster.
For wet environments, use waterproof strips or seal with silicone sleeves.
Consider adding a fuse between your battery and controller for safety.
If you get stuck or have questions, feel free to message me. I’m also working on a DIY video to walk through the process step-by-step!
Light it up and ride bright,
HiVis
